It's about a year since I drank Mashtun Millionaires, one of a pair of beers which represented the final new releases from YellowBelly brewery, though we didn't know it at the time. The brewery had been doing everything right in terms of having a reliable core range, geek-pitched one-offs, two tied pubs and an overall plethora of good will. I guess it just wasn't enough. There's talk of a revival and I hope it works out.Meanwhile, in Molloy's off licence recently, I spotted two bottles of Mashtun Millionaire in the expiring beer discount zone. First off, it's dated June 2022 so should be fine; secondly it's a strong Brett-fermented ale in an armoured Belgian bottle so should be absolutely fine; and thirdly it was priced at €2.50 a bottle so I bought both of the ones displayed. As it happened I had stashed a bottle that I acquired from the brewery last year for €6, so what better excuse to get it open?
Brett perfume is the first impression, mostly lavender and violet, with a greasy but enticing rotten funk in the background. The flavour takes that fermenting-flowers sweetness and adds in an incense spicing with some oaky vanilla. While all funky and farmyard to begin, the finish is pure and clean, with crisp white lemonade and sparkling dry cava.
In my original assessment I found it dirty and tough going to drink. I'm confident now that it has cleaned itself up and begun to fulfil its potential. I suspect it still has a way to go so don't crack your spare bottle just yet. Me, I'm very glad I have two more still in the stash.
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